To Quote Paddy Dillon*: "The GR20 is more than just a walk; it's an experience to be savoured to the full - one that will provide excitement, wonder, awe and treasured memories. You shouldn't simply walk the GR20; you should live it and make it part of your life."
* "GR20, CORSICA - The High Level Route" by Paddy Dillon, published by Cicerone Press.
This presentation describes walking the GR20, recognised as being one of Europe's toughest treks through the most mountainous island in the Mediterranean. A spectacular long-distance route running right across the island's central spine. Magnificent and awe-inspiring scenery for 120 miles. With a total of 117 jagged peaks each over 2,000m high, all packed into an area not much larger than Devon, it is little wonder that Corsica is often referred to as "The Mountain in the Sea".
Perhaps one of the nicest things about Corsica is that it hasn't been spoilt by package tourism. With a population of just 250,000 inhabitants, the island is one of the Mediterranean's last untarnished jewels boasting an extraordinary variety of beaches, including some of Europe's best, many deserted outside high season.
Scenically, Corsica is hard to beat, especially in the rugged, unspoilt interior with high mountains, spectacular gorges, forests and picturesque villages clinging to precipitous mountainsides. Everywhere the fragrant maquis abounds (a tangled mix of herbs and aromatic shrubs), providing a blaze of colour in spring. Over 2,000 plant species make Corsica a paradise for wild flower enthusiasts, the wide variety brought about by the difference in climate from coast to high mountain. Like most other long-established islands, Corsica boasts some unique plants and animals, not found anywhere else in the world, including the beautiful Laricio or "Corsican" Pine and the bird which feeds on its seeds, the Corsican Nuthatch.
Modern life is left a million miles away once you embark on the GR20. It's reputed to be the most demanding long distance footpath in either Corsica, France or Europe - depending on which guidebook you read. It doesn't matter which one is right because, once you've completed it, you know it has been demanding! Running for 200kms, from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south, the GR20 is a stunning 15 stage walk taking you through the highest and most remote parts of the island, crossing only 4 minor roads in its entire length. It can be walked in either direction, but the vast majority of walkers opt for north to south because the start at Calenzana is only 7 miles inland from the entrance port of Calvi.
The majority of the walk is over rocky and uneven ground, either up or down! Some parts are simply walking trails, occasionally running along the level. Other parts cross bare rock and involve exposed scrambling. In a few places, there are fixed cables, chains and ladders to assist walkers. But everywhere, the route is well marked with red and white stripes of paint and is usually very easy to follow. In fact, if you don't see a marker after five minutes or so, then you are invariably going the wrong way! Walking poles are essential, and if you succeed in walking the entire route, you will have notched up an impressive 50,000 feet of ascent and 50,000 feet of descent.
The best time to walk is from the end of May until early October. Before or after this, snow blocks much of the route. Peak months are July and August when most people walk the GR20. Mountain huts (refuges) are open all year but are only staffed by a guardian between June and September. They provide basic unisex accommodation, with simple foam mattresses, on a "first come first served" basis, plus kitchen/dining room with simple gas cookers and kitchen utensils. During the busiest months, it's wise to carry your own tent and sleeping bag in case the refuges are full when you arrive. Most of the toilets and showers are primitive, outside affairs, and hot water is on tap only as long as the solar power holds out!
Water is obtainable at all refuges and from waymarked streams along the route. Food is more of a problem. It's necessary to carry some (packets of dehydrated meals are useful) because, although basic food can be purchased at most of the refuges, it is usually in short supply and always very expensive. It is hard to eat enough to keep pace with calories expended, so everyone who completes this wonderful walk ends up being fitter and thinner than before!
If you would like to know more about Corsica then try this link www.corsica-isula.com